The Greatest City You Have Never Heard Of: tuebingen germany

Berlin is progressive, Dresden is beautiful and Munich is rich in  history but you’re missing out on a huge part of Germany if you stay on the beaten travel path. There are many small towns and villages sprinkled throughout Germany that can give you a taste of the local German culture without the underlying emphasis on appealing to tourists. Getting too and enjoying oneself in a small village is sometimes too much to ask but there is an alternative. Tübingen is a relatively small German city in Baden Württemberg which while seemingly stuck in time is home to a major University providing it with a progressiveness and young vibrant undercurrent.

Having lived in Tübingen for over a year I am often asked, as I recommend a visit to all I meet, where is this place? In short the easiest way to locate this traditional town on a map is to find Stuttgart (the nearest airport you can fly into) and follow the Neckar river down for about the equivalent of a 40 min. drive. If you do happen to arrive at Stuttgart airport there are several options to get you here. A regularly scheduled bus, train or car rental are all inexpensive and easy to find.

The oldest part of the city or Altstadt is still a traditional south German city with half-timbered buildings, cobblestone roads and small shops lining the historic Marktplatz (market place). Having survived WWII bombings because of is military insignificance the Altstadt stands today as a memory of an older Germany. In fact, one of the focal points of the city is the Stiftskirche which was one of the first in Germany to convert from Roman Catholicism to Protestantism creating an odd juxtaposition of faith and architecture. There is also a breathtaking view of the city and the surrounding countryside when you climb the churches tower for just a couple Euros. Or, save the Euros and buy yourself a Döner Kebab (similar to a Gyro) right around the corner at the cheapest but tastiest Döner stand in the city.

One may even take notice of an indication that many famous persons have called Tübingen home throughout history by looking over their shoulder as they enter the church. On the wall above you are two placards one indicates that Goethe wohnte hier (lit. Goethe lived here) and beside it the other reads Goethe kotzte heir (lit. Goethe puked here). This stands as a testament to the number of small, cozy bars, each with its unique character that dot the city. Personally, I enjoy bringing a bottle of wine down to the fountain that stands before the Rathaus on the Martkplatz and chatting with other locals and students. Not speaking German is not a problem in this University City.

The city resides along the Neckar River where on warm days one can take a Stocherkahn ride (like a gondola) or grab a seat at the local Biergarten and enjoy the view. The Hefeweizen at the Neckar Müller restaurant is brewed in-house and some of the best you will ever taste. Moving out from the city center the area becomes a little more progressive and a younger crowd dominates the few night clubs that find themselves packed most evenings. The Blaue Turm caters to a different crowd each night and varies its theme from hip-hop to reggae to gay and lesbian night.

If you are more the outdoorsy type then there are several hikes that take you out of the city and into the countryside. The possibilities range from enjoying a short climb to the local castle or a meandering forest walk to the nearby village of Bebenhausen. Here you can explore the famous Bebe nhausen Abby which was built sometime around 1190 and stands in the middle of a village called home by only 350 residents. The honest truth is that in every nook and cranny of this picturesque little city you can find something to do and new sights to see. The people are  friendly and the town is inviting. A short visit may just have you calling it a home away from home just as it did for me.