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Tickets To The Alhambra: how to get tickets and arrive at the alhambra in granada

   

Everybody who comes to Granada has the intention of doing two things; tapas bar hoping and visiting the Alhambra.  This coupled with the limited number of visitors allowed into the Fortress each day suggests that you should purchase your tickets in advance to ensure you get in.  Of course if you feel lucky or are visiting in the off season you can hike on up the hill to the main entrance to pay cash, but it’s a bit of a walk to chance getting in.  Here is a quick guide to getting your ticket and arriving at the last Moorish strong hold in Spain, the Alhambra.
      I recommend you purchase your tickets as soon as you know the date you will be in Granada; and be sure of this. Tickets are good only for the date chosen and will have a specific half hour window printed on them during which you can enter the Nasrid Palace.  This is not something you want to miss! 
Up to 3 months in advance you can visit www.alhambra-tickets.es and follow the websites through until you print out a reservation number. There are 3 different types of tickets that you can purchase; A general daytime ticket, a night time visit and a visit to just the gardens.  As you maneuver the website you’ll be asked if you want to visit in the morning or afternoon.  Base you’re decision on the weather; it can get hot in the summer as the day progresses and be realistic about your previous night’s tapas and beer consumption.  There’s nothing worse than being surrounded by beautiful Islamic architecture with its sunny open courtyards and large lattice work windows shinning rays of light through high arches only to have to wear sunglasses to ease the hangover that needed to be slept off.
  Remember to bring the printed confirmation page with you and the card you use to make the reservation to the ticket office at the main entrance of the fortress.  Its here that you will pick up your actual ticket, complete with the time you can enter the Islamic palace and several other subsections which staff will tear or stamp as you enter the various areas inside the walls. 
Do be aware that if you’re traveling in a group larger than 10 the system will not allow you to book all at once resulting in different entry times to the palace.  If this is the case you may want to go through a travel agent.  Also, once the tickets are purchased you can not cancel or change anything about them.  For more information visit www.alhambra.org. 
To get up to the entrance pavilion where you will pick up your ticket you have a few options.  Walk, take a bus or drive.  For most, you won’t have your own car and if you do your braver than I so I’ll run through the first two options.
  To walk, you have two different paths you can take.  Both are steep at points and a little over half a mile to the top.  Still, it is pleasant walking along the fortified walls with small in-ground aqua ducts flowing past and the green trees rustling above your head.   The more popular route is to take the street Cuesta de Gomérez up from Plaza Nueva.  However, you can follow the river Darro up past Plaza Nueva until you come to Cuesta de los Chinos on your right which will also take you up to the Entrance, albeit around the other side of the Alhambra.  The latter of which is my favorite as it tends to be less crowded and depending on the season has a few small waterfalls.  On the other hand the more popular route has some drinking fountains and a few surprises of its own.
     If you’d rather save your energy for touring the home of princes at the top, you can catch bus number 30 or 32 from Plaza Nueva and get off at the entrance pavilion. 
However you decide to reach the entrance of the Alhambra you won’t disappointed with your decision to visit one of the most magical and awe inspiring locations in all of Europe.

Barcelona Accommodation: Absolut Centro is absolutely central and absolutely wonderful

            You’re headed to Barcelona for a few days and while you probably won’t end up sleeping too much at night you do need a place to store your stuff and call home base.  While there are a ton of options in this vibrant, exciting and sometimes expensive city finding a reasonably priced room within walking distance from La Rambla (the main tourist street leading to the pier), several metro shops and smack dab in an area full of lively clubs and relaxing cafes can be difficult.  But it doesn’t have to be any longer.

      On several trips to the coastal city I have called “Absolut Centro” home.  Actually comprising two locations about 2 blocks from each other this practically perfect accommodation choice has the location (absolutely central), the right price and the hospitality budget travelers look for but don’t always get.  Now, we’re not talking 4 stars but we certainly aren’t pushing dorm room hostel stays either.  This 2 star choice has 12 rooms all-together and many of them include balcony views and can accommodate 1-4 people.  The beds are comfortable and the shared bathrooms are clean. 

            Jordi, who runs the place, has consistently been very helpful when I’ve asked for directions or needed some extra sheets.  About two years ago I even arrived without a reservation and with his own place full for the night, good old Jordi made a few phone calls and set me up in a friend’s rental apartment!  Just this last summer I arrived with my Dad, who had never been outside the US, and within minutes we were shown to our room and made to feel at home with the keys to the front door as well as our room. 

            As for the price, it just can’t be beat.  With a range of 35-85 Euros per room you can easily save when traveling with at least one other person by splitting the cost.  Traveling with 3 people? You’re going to end up with more money in your pocket than you would have if you stayed in a 15 person dorm room at some youth hostel.  On my most recent visit a double room (two beds) with a balcony view and ample storage space for our backpacks cost me and my Dad only 49 Euro at the beginning of peak season.  Then of course you have the location.

            As anyone knows who has been to Barcelona; the closer you get to La Rambla or the main tourist area the more the accommodation will cost you.  “Absolut Centro” is located in the beautiful modernist area known as El Quadrat ‘d Or or the Golden Quarter of the L’Eixample.   Being located directly on La Rambla aside, this is about as central as you can get.  The hotel is just two blocks from the Universitat metro station and within walking distance to several Anton Gaudi buildings, some great places to eat, Placa de Catalunya and wonderful places to shop. There are even several grocery stores nearby and an inexpensive internet café.  Jordi can point all these out for you.  When it’s late at night and you’re stumbling home from my favorite bar, El Aguelo down by the coast your bed is never too far to walk. 

For those of you who are more familiar with Barcelona you may recognize L’Eixample as being known as the Gay district of the city.  Not to worry however, at most this means, to the straight crowd, trendy café’s, well dressed locals and passing by the occasional “bear bar”.  For the Gay folks, this hotel is located within easy walking distance to the most popular gay bars, stocked sex shops and discrete saunas.

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            Finding your way to the hostel is easier than finding your way around the streets in El Bari Gotic down by the pier.  Where ever you’re point of origin is, just head towards the Universitat station.  This stop will be on the L-1 line which is the red one on the map.  If you’re coming from the airport you can take Aerobus A1 to the city center and get off at Plaza Universitat stop. A taxi from the airport should cost you around 20 Euros and take you about 20 minutes. In either case, once you reach the small plaza known as Universitat just face the large building across the street to the north which is the University and head left, towards the Starbucks, down the multi-lane road Gran via de les Corts Catalanes.  Two blocks up on your right you will come to Carrer de Casanova.   Make a right and follow the street up just a little ways until you reach # 72.  The arched brown double door will be on your right side with a long plaque that reads “Hostal Absolut Centro Tel 649 550 238” in red.  Ring the bell, head on up and enjoy your stay.

    For more information and to book your stay you will want to check out www.absolutcentro.com .  Here you can find a few more pictures and a map of the location as well as send in your booking request.  Like many hotels or hostels in Europe; the gems are not to be found on the big booking sites but take reservations directly through their own sites. 

    Enjoy your stay in Barcelonaand tell Jordi Chris recommended “Absolut Centro.”

A Barcelona Bar That Shouldn't Be Missed: bodega el aguelo

    Once in a while  you wander the streets of a European city and happen into a bar or restaurant that for years and trips to come will be "your" spot.  Every time you return to that city you seek out that place, sip a glass of wine, chug a pint of beer or munch on your favorite tapas.  Often re-creating that first memorable experience falls short and you may not return, but other times, those times you know you found the right place, each visit is a happy continuation from the next.  My place which I recommend to everyone headed to Barcelona is a unique little bar called Bodega el Aguelo.

    Without a sense of where you're going this corner bar can be difficult to find.  The streets around La Rambla are complicated and narrow, winding this way then that.  On my most recent trip I spent an hour or so wandering the back streets trying to find this place I have visited five times before.  But, with directions in mind it is an easy find.   Head down La Rambla until you reach Carrer de Josep Anselm Clave right before the main street that runs along the water front. Make a left, walking away from the Columbus statue (who is not pointing to the Americas by the way) until you hit Carrer d'Avinyo.  Head left once again and keep your eyes open for the bar on a corner on your right at number 37.

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     With drying pork legs hung from the ceiling waiting to be sliced into delicious prosciutto at a local market, old wooden benches and an upper level in the back it would be hard to miss.   Bright red wagon wheels are mounted to a wall in the rear and somewhat dusty glass chandelier provides just enough light to set an ambiance.  The bar is stocked with a variety of liquors but a nice cold cerveza is what is on the menu when I sit down.   In the back, under the upper level and towards the restroom are some fussball tables that probably get more use from the owners than patrons.  At times the place is quiet but once in awhile you get a small rush of locals or tourists drawn in by a sense of "feeling at home" that is evident from outside.

  On the wall you may notice several bottles of something called Pacharan.  This tasty liquor, served over ice is a made in-house specialty and may remind you of a sweet Jager Meister.   Ordering it by the glass will cost yo u about 20 Euro a bottle but if you want to take a bottle home, 10 Euros can buy you a souvenir to look forward to.  Just remember you will have to check it at the airport or mail it before you leave. 

     The bartenders are friendly and despite the lack of English spoken here, everyone understands "beer"; but I'm sure you can muster "Cerveza".  Tapas are served from the bar and if your hungry try the Pan con Tomate.  A toasted bread rubbed with garlic and tomato. The food however is not why locals come by.

     My first visit was an accidental meeting when I found myself unprepared for a French rail strike and "stranded" in Barcelona trying to figure out what to do next.  I wandered into Avinyo 37, sat down, ordered a beer and planned the remaining 3 weeks of my trip around Europe.  From that time forward I have returned here on each of my visits to Barcelona. On my most recent visit in April 2008  I was lucky enough to introduce my Dad, on his first ever visit to Europe, to this dear Spanish friend of mine, the Bodega el Aguelo and I hope you give it a try too.

Five Great Spots to Relax In Europe: Venice, Tübingen, Prague,Cinque Terre,Granada

        All of us have those spots that just make us smile and feel good; those areas that bring a rush of emotion. You might chuckle when you think about them walking down the street and you may even wonder where the person's next to you is.  In the next few paragraphs I'm going to tell you all about mine.

     Now now, don't let your mind travel down that path; I'm talking about those individual and specific places in Europe that hold a special place in your heart.   These are the locations that you return to again and again to sip your favorite wine or relax as the tide rolls in.  They are the little plots on this earth where you feel comfortable, relaxed and at home; no matter how far away your mortgage is paid.   I can't say exactly why these places are dear to me.  All of course bring back memories of great times or strong emotions but some seem to do this for so many people it makes me think that there is just something innate to the area. 

1. Piazza San Marco, Venice Italy:

     St. Mark's Square is accurately if not figuratively referred to as the center of Venice.  With St. Mark's Basilica at one end and the Campanile (iconic bell tower) rising high as a symbol of Venice the piazza makes an impression.  Lacking the din of automobiles that fill most Italian cities but still providing enough outdoor seating for high priced cafe's to hawk expensive coffee to tourists, the buzz of relaxed conversation supplies ambiance. 

      During the day the center of this massive space fills with pigeons and tourists.  The similarity between the two is enough to bring a smile to your face.  Both chase each other around; one feeding one with cracker crumbs the other nourishing its counterpart with spectacle (and one can't help think, disease).  Early in the day I wander the city like any visitor to Venice should.  Getting lost and with only one concern; finding a bottle of wine to enjoy.  Personally I am no connoisseur of wine.  If you slap an attractive picture on the front, it's red and inexpensive I'm happy.  Still, in Venice, the bottle I end up with is the only thing I was ever destined to find. 

     As dusk begins to fall I make my way to the stairs surrounding the square.  Taking a seat opposite the Basilica on one of the three stairs that run the length under the Museo Correr (or the Napoleonic wing of the Procuraties) I open my wine.  People watching for the next hour or two in this spot at this time of day is repeatedly one of the best moments of my life.  The sun falls slowly causing a slight chill in the almost enclosed area, people drift by arm in arm, violins compete softly with each other to bring crowds to their employer's cafe and all the while you are more aware than ever that you are in Europe and have accomplished your dream.  As the glow of the lamps encircling the piazza brighten I know the time has come to finish my wine and walk slowly and appreciatively back to my bed for the evening feeling fulfilled and once again complete.

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2. The Stiftskirche Steps, Tübingen Germany:

      Surely this is one of those locations you just don't end up in like many other major cities in Europe. My personal attachment to this town was that I spent what was probably the best year of my life there during a study abroad experience.  The memories I have most definitely influence my decision to place this location on my list but the simple setting and care free atmosphere incite me to share.

     In the center of Tübingen, a University city south of Stuttgart,  lies the Stiftskirche.  Gothic in style and built in 1470 this church was among the first to make the conversion to Protestantism.  The result is an intriguing juxtaposition of faith and architecture.  At its base lie long rows of steps and in front of that a large round fountain that one finds either decorated with local flowers or sealed up to prevent damage in the winter.  Narrow cobblestone pedestrian streets lead away and along the front of the church and guide strolling locals into half timbered buildings that house used book stores, bakeries and an assortment of other goodies.  In the building to the immediate right of the fountain there is a window and from this window the smell of Turkish Doner kebabs and swarma rises.

      In the warmer months as well as those times when snow is beginning to fall I would gather along those steps with friends from many different countries.  Laying a foundation of Doner in our stomaches we would move on to purchasing bottles of beer from the tasty smelling window shop.  At 1.80 Euro a bottle with a ten cent refund (pfand) with the return of the bottle the location is both cheap and convenient.  The local shops would close for the evening and parents would push their children along snuggled in their strollers towards their destination.  University students would begin moving about the city in search of good conversation and we could watch it all, knowing we had already found our destination as well as great conversation.  Sometimes hanging out for hours, the night would eventually grow cold and each would head home in turn, still thinking about the topics discussed amongst intelligent University students on the steps of the Stiftskirche.

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3.  The hill top in Kinskeho Zahrada, Prague Czech Republic

       Just south of the Prague Castle there is massive park that is largely on a hill.  Trails run their course back and forth through the green grass (in the summer) and lead travelers towards Petřín Tower; the Eiffel Tower looking structure.  If the sun is shinning and a cool breeze is in the air you'll want to take an afternoon and a small picnic down Karmelitska (which will be on your left after continuing west from crossing Charles Bridge).  When you hit Helichova you will turn right.  At the end of Helichova you can begin your stroll up the hill.  If worst comes to worst and you get lost just head towards the tower.

     On your way up you will pass joggers and other locals enjoying a park that many tourists never give the chance it deserves.  As a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of the city you can start to hear the Czech birds chirp and the Prague trees rustle.  Before long and without much effort you begin to get a nice view of the city as you rise above the rooftops of the neighborhood below.  When the mood strikes you, wander off the trail and find a nice area to lie in the bright green grass and stare up at the sky.

     On a beautiful Prague day I find little that is more relaxing than lying on this hillside with a nice breeze blowing along the grass and the sun shining brightly off the adobe colored rooftops below.  With a warmth in the air and the coolness of the greenery around me I love to sit and watch as the clouds roll by.  Trying to decide what each resembles seems like a game provided to me specifically to distract my mind from any care I have in the world and for awhile I can slip away from the stress travel can bring.

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4. The wave break in Cinque Terre, Monterosso Italy:

      Becoming more and more popular by the year Cinque Terre is developing into the go to place in Italy.   Consisting of five distinct, small fishing villages connected by train and trail each town has a charm of its own.  Whether you're up for lounging on the beach, eating some great seafood or taking a hike towards the next town while passing the grape vines that yield the local wine this place is beautiful.  You will have to watch out for skyrocketing prices for accommodation however.  The locals know you want to invade their city and they will make you pay.

     The first town on the west is Monterosso.  Here you will find what is probably the best and largest stretch of beach of all the villages and as I reported in an earlier article, the best seafood spaghetti I have ever had.  Wandering  the city during the day is a joy as locals stroll the streets and shop in local stores along side visitors from other countries.  Small wine shops sell a huge variety of their wares and church bells ring at hours that seem odd to US travelers.  When you arrive in the city you will have to leave the train station and head east through a long tunnel that takes you to old Monterosso.  After you exit the tunnel and come down the ramp turn to your right to see the waves break gently on the beach.  Along the cliff wall is a walk way that leads out to a rock wave break that prevents the larger waves from approaching too fast.

     As night falls and with a bottle of local wine in hand I love to make my way out to the wave break area.  Finding a comfortable spot I sit down open the bottle and relax to the sound of the sea just as generations of Italians have done before me.  When the sun is down completely the city remains alive with the glow of the street lighting.  The occasional fishing boat will head out to sea to work on tomorrow's fresh catch and periodically the train will rumble along the track that is raised high above those out for an evening stroll.   Occasionally you may find another traveler enjoying this area but all in all the solitude the sound of the sea and removal of big city traffic provides is more than enough to sit back and dream of owning your own home in a fishing village in Italy.

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5. Plaza de San Nicolás, Granada Spain:

     Granada offers visitors a huge amount of sights to see, food to taste and culture to immerse oneself in.  Standing with some of the best sights to see in all of Europe is the Alhambra which recently was up for the vote as one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  Still, while the interior of the Alhambra is not to be missed, catching a view of this Moorish stronghold from Plaza de San Nicolás is definitely a must see.

      Located in the Albaicin area of Granada this plaza offers the best   view of the Fortress and provides a great place to relax.  Finding one's way can be a bit confusing amidst the maze of streets and alleys that make up this neighborhood so bring along a map or follow the small crowds of tourist.   You will have to make your way up hill to reach this small plaza but the strain is worth it.  All in all the area is not that large but looking south provides one of the best views anywhere.

     I typically set out about an hour before dusk in search of this high white wall that creates the border of Plaza de San Nicolás.   Travelers dangle their feet over the side of the wall, a small drum circle beats a calming atmosphere into existence and everybody's gaze is to the south.  Across the way lies the Alhambra which at dusk begins to be lit up with bright spotlights that make the fortress look as if it is made of gold.  Behind the Palace lies the snow topped mountains of the Sierra Nevada and as the sun sinks to your right you find it hard to take your eyes off the beautiful scene in front of you.  Throw your legs over the side of the wall, snap a few pictures and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere.    

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A Buzz From Spain:agua de valencia, sangria, kalimotxo; great drink recipes from spain

I was sitting around last night thinking about things I have brought back from Europe with me.  Of course there are memories and souvenirs.  There are pictures and ticket stubs, lessons learned and stories to tell. Above all though there are those little pieces of Europe that you can recreate at home.  Drink recipes!!

It just so happens that 3 of my favorite drinks I learned to make in Europe are Spanish so that is going to be todays theme.  At the top of my list is a little something I came across in Valencia Spain.

The Agua de Valencia [water of Valencia] apparently can be traced back to the 1950s when a local Valencia bar owner added his own twist to another popular Spanish drink Agua de Bilbao.  By the 1970s it had become a staple of the Valencia night life and is a definite must on your next visit the third largest city in Spain.  The drink is essentially cava [white or pink sparkling wine], vodka, gin, orange juice, and sugar.   At home you can just use any old champagne in place of cava to save money...Andre champagne seems to be the cheapest in the States.  Usually I just leave the gin out when I make it at home but the recipe is simple either way.  Just mix the following together and enjoy.

1 part gin and or vodka

1 part Champagne / cava

2 parts orange juice

about a teaspoon of sugar

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The next Spanish drink is one you are probably familiar with, Sangria.  Deriving from the word for blood in Spanish, sangre, this red wine based drink is popular in the hot summer of Spain.  The recipe for this drink varies from person to person and is just fun to tweak to suit your taste.  The essentials are red wine, brandy (this is sometimes left out) and fruit served over ice.  Have fun with this one when you have visitors over for a casual evening at home.

1 good bottle of red wine

2-3 shots of brandy

sliced fruits of your choice- the staples are apples, oranges and peaches but you can pretty much through anything in that appeals to you.

Put all the ingredients in a large bowl or pitcher and let chill 2-hours or overnight then serve over ice.

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The most unusual or perhaps surprisingly tasty drink I was introduced to is called the calimocho or Kalimotxo.  It was while I studied abroad in Germany that a bunch of Spanish students had me over for a get together and handed me a two-liter of what looked like soda.  Made from 50% cola-based soda (coke or Pepsi) and 50% red wine this little drink is popular among the younger Spanish crowd.  From what I have read the Calimocho originated out of the need to mask the flavor of cheap wine and as a result this drink remains a cheap way to get a buzz.  Now I haven't found any recipes that suggest using flat soda and perhaps it was just because I was drinking with a bunch of poor students, but their mixture had very little carbonation and I thought it tasted better that way; you will have to decide for yourself.  The recipe is simple;

drink half a two liter of soda (let it sit around a while if you want it flat) and then fill the rest of the bottle with red wine.   Chill and drink!

There you have it.  A little taste of Spain that you can recreate at home.`