The Best Dinner I Have Ever Had In Europe, Twice: seafood spaghetti that i traveled 8 hours to get

You may have heard of Cinque Terre Italy. Travel writer Rick Steves has almost single handedly popularized the five fishing villages along the Mediterranean coast of Italy.  It is in the western most village of Monterosso that I have had the best meal of my life, twice.

  The first time I just happened across Ristorante Belvedere by asking the guy at the local Internet cafe where to eat cheaply and well. So, I joined some people I met on the train into town and we made our way to the quaint little restaurant under the train tracks.  I ordered the seafood spaghetti and from that day forward was hooked; I don't even like seafood.  The second time I enjoyed the food here I forced my travel partner to take 8 hours of trains out of our way to get to Montorosso just to have the spaghetti, then turn around and leave for Florence the next day; there was no complaining after we ate.

The plate is filled with muscles, clams, shrimp and baby octopus all fished locally.  Most of it is still in the shells and tossed with the noodles and a tasty tomato sauce.  The order is made for two and splitting the bill and the meal will fill you up without emptying your wallet (about 15 Euro).  Do be warned, like most places in Italy, if you eat the bread on the table you will be charged for it.  If you have a couple extra bucks to spend get a bottle of Cinque Terre wine to go with your dinner; it too is made locally and is excellent.  (You can save a few extra bucks if you just buy a bottle after dinner at one of the local wine stores around town.  There is one across the plaza from the restaurant.)

  Finding the place is not hard at all.  When you get off the train in Montorosso you will exit the train station by going down a flight of stairs and find yourself on a narrow road that follows the beach.  Head to your left (east) and take the road all the way through the long tunnel.  As you emerge you will see more beach to your right and the train tracks making their way to the next town, Vernazza.  Just walk towards the building which looks as if it is supporting the tracks, go to the north side and you will see the door. The map below will give you a pretty good idea of where it is. If night has fallen don't worry, the restaurant is open late.  On my last trip we didn't even make our way to eat until 9:30 or 10:00 during the summer (it was a really long train trip). They are closed on Tuesday in the winter however.

As a side note; I mentioned above that I asked the guy at an Internet cafe where to eat.  Although it is not advertised the man who runs the place  can find you accommodation throughout Montorosso.  If you happen to arrive without a place to stay, try to find the small Internet cafe (on the map below.  It will have an A frame sign sitting out front that says "Internet" and is kinda tucked into a corner). Ask the guy in the back if he knows of a place to stay.  He will pull out a weathered old notebook and start calling locals who are trying to rent extra rooms out.  It may not be a hotel but in a pinch it is at least unique and hospitable.  I would suggest trying to find accommodation before hand. The areas popularity has started to make prices skyrocket during the peak season.

For additional info on Cinque Terre I would refer to Rick Steves' guidebooks or just Google the name.  If you find yourself in the neighborhood however you should without a doubt try the seafood spaghetti at Ristorante Belvedere.

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*Thanks to all the forum posts that helped me remember the name of the restaurant. You all are lifesavers*

Comments

[Rea]

My husband and I are rather excited to try this meal as well as the wave breaking moment... our accommodations are booked in Vernazza - is it a walk back to the hotel or should we plan that for the daytime? We'll be there in October :-)

[Chris]

Hi Rea, you will have a great time!! Walking back at night is not really going ot be an option. But taking a train back or possibly finding a fishing boat shuttling folks between cities is. For the relaxing on the beach or watching waves break under the moon, I'm sure you can find a spot in Vernazza to call your own...but then I want to hear about it :)