It's lunch time. Florentine bricklayers, lawyers or working men in general make there way along cobble stone streets to grab a bite to eat. Gathering around a small unassuming window or stainless steel food service cart they discuss the warm weather, yesterday's soccer match or current politics and order pane di trippa.
The tripe sandwich is a true "culinary" experience in Florence. M ost often frequented by working men; although you may spot a woman here every now and again; the rather inexpensive lunch is a sure fire way to experience Florence. Although you can find this "cut of beef" prepared in restaurants throughout Florence you certainly would be missing out on a cultural tradition/ experience if you didn't seek out a Trippaio and mingle with the locals.
The tripe stands or wagons if you will, can be found all over the city. There are several at the Mercato Centrale (surrounding the Cappelle Medicee) worth trying if your up for it. Just keep your eye out for a group of chatty Italian men hovering around a small cart amongst the tons and tons of leather goods for sale. There is also another you may be passing on your way to see Dante's house. This one down the small alley leading past "Dante's Church" is nothing more than a window in a wall. You really cant miss it. Still for a more authentic experience, the wagons are your best bet. Generally you will find that a sandwich will cost you around 3 Euro.
The meat is often slow boiled, making it more tender than it would otherwise be and then placed on a bun which can be dipped in the broth the meat was cooked in. This dipping of the bun is referred to as bagnato and recommended if asked. At most stands you are given the choice of a green salsa made of garlic, parsley, capers and oil plus a few house specialties or a hot sauce (essentially chili oil). The snack can be a bit messy so grab a few napkins and try to enjoy.
For those that don't know, tripe is actually cow's stomach and yes it looks about as disgusting as you can imagine. For my part, I can say they are tasty but looking away from what you're eating may be a tactic you employ. A Trippaio in Florence typically uses abomasum or lampredotto which is from the cow's fourth stomach and not from the second more pocketed stomach you find easier in the States (if you're looking). The texture is not all that off putting and the long boiling time gets rid of any distinct "I'm eating a cow's stomach" flavor. Besides, all the flavor comes from the sauces you choose anyways.
For many of you out there this may not be your reason to visit Florence. For those that do try a Tripe sandwich it in all honestly may be the last you ever have. It was for me! Still, there are few ways that 3 Euro can get you an authentic, local mingling, in your face and down your chin cultural experience like at least trying a pane di trippa in Florence.
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